A Sherry Odyssey
What's holding Sherry back from hitting the big time and a run down of the key styles.
Ever since I began to learn about wine, the category that really captivated me was Sherry. Was I drawn to it because it wasn’t very mainstream? Or, was it because one sip instantly transported me to the cobbled, warm streets of Jerez (read more about my love for Jerez here). Whatever it was, I’ve been a loyal fan of Sherry for nearly a decade now.
Sherry might be more trendy now but over time, the drink has gone through more looks than Madonna. From Harvey’s Bristol Cream gathering dust in drinks cupboards to Manzanilla Pasada being served in cool restaurants, Sherry has nearly come full circle. You might not have come across Harvey’s Bristol Cream before but your grandparents will be familiar. This sweet, nutty, sticky Sherry was the single-highest selling wine of the region in the 1970s due to its popularity in the UK but it has since faded into insignificance. It’s interesting to note that citizens of Jerez prefer the dry styles of Fino and Manzanilla, whereas the Brits love sugar! I urge you to buy a bottle if you see it as it’s genuinely moreish but this sweet style of Sherry has been usurped by the quirkier, drier styles of which I am a big fan.
Here are the main styles of dry Sherry, which are all made from 100% Palomino grapes. This variety is a white grape that produces low acid, relatively bland white wines. This sounds unappealing but a blank canvas is needed because the next stage of winemaking is where the magic happens. It’s important to note the word dry here as sweet styles such as Cream sherries and Pedro Ximenez (super sticky, and sweet Sherry to accompany desserts) do exist. By law Sherry is a fortified wine, which means that grape spirit (clean like vodka) must be added to the base wine. This process of fortification ups the alcohol level but it gives each style its individuality.
Fino - light and delicate but richer than Manzanilla. Bone dry with yeasty, salty notes. The key word to associate with Fino is flor. Flor is a layer of yeast (it looks like baking powder), which can only exist if the alcohol level does not exceed 15/15.5%. If the winemaker wants to create Fino Sherry, they would need to fortify the base wine accordingly. Anything more than 15% and flor can’t spawn. Tio Pepe is the benchmark but this is great too.
Manzanilla - very similar to Fino but named Manzanilla because it can only be made in the coastal town of Sanlucar de Barrameda. There are lots of myths around Manzanilla. One is that due to the bodegas proximity to the River Guadalquivir, the sherries have a saltiness. I don’t think this is true but it’s a nice story! These sherries are delicate, floral even, with hints of apple. Hidalgo’s La Gitana is a classic. Also look out for Manzanilla Pasada, which is an aged style so there’s a bit more colour and richness to the wine. This is a delicious and frighteningly cheap bottle to have in your fridge.
Amontillado - this has gradually become my new favourite style of Sherry. There is something so special about Amontillados and I really want you to experience it! Amontillado starts its life as a Fino but for a variety of reasons, the flor dies and the wine starts to oxidise. This sounds like something to avoid but oxygen, in this instance, is welcomed turning the liquid amber and transforming salty flavours into roasted nuts and orange peel aromas. When best to drink a glass? After work, enjoy one glass while you cook or with cheese after dinner. Amontillado is the best of both worlds so I’d buy this to try and this for a special occasion.
Palo Cortado - this style bridges the gap between Amontillado and Oloroso. It’s the rarest style because producers can’t plan to make it; Palo Cortado is only born if the stars align. Palo Cortado combines the fuller body/richness of Oloroso with the tangy aromatics of Amontillado. It’s an incredible style to serve with food but the price correlates to how tricky it is to make. This is a great value version.
Oloroso - this is the fullest, roundest style. The alcohol level reaches its peak with Olorosos leading to rich, intense wines. The flavours of coffee, roasted nuts and black treacle might indicate sweetness but Olorosos are always dry. I fall in and out of love with Oloroso as they are intense so you have to be in the mood for it. Give this a go to see if you like the style.
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I’ve always daydreamed about creating my own Sherry brand. I can see the bottle now with a logo of The Little Grape and I can imagine peddling my wares at Christmas fairs and festivals. I love the idea of really having to sell something, face to face, and being on your feet all day. Maybe this is an act of rebellion due to spending so much time on my computer!? I would revel in chatting to people about Sherry, as it is misunderstood and underappreciated. But I’ve always let go of this fantasy because I’m just not sure it would work. So much would need to change around drinking habits to allow me to earn a living selling my sherries!
Every time I’ve introduced Sherry to friends, I’ve had a pretty good hit rate. They have all been converted and now I see bottles of Fino replacing Chardonnay in their fridges. But there is still a long way to go and I often ask myself why Sherry is not more popular?
The higher alcohol level is an issue. In a world where we are encouraged to drink less, lower alcohol beers and wine are becoming more popular. Even the government is increasing duty rates to make it more expensive to drink higher alcohol wines. Fino and Manzanilla sherries start at 15% ABV, with the oxidative styles heading into the 18-20% ABV range. When you think that most still white wines hover around the 13% mark, that extra 2% does make a difference.
One of my favourite times to drink Sherry is when I’m cooking. You’re cooking for a group at home on a Saturday whilst sipping on a chilled glass of Manzanilla. This really is one of life’s great joys and the way it should be drunk. Personally, Sherry’s alcohol levels are just that little bit too high for me to drink all night but you might think differently. Fino and Manzanilla toe the line but Amontillado, Oloroso and Palo Cortado sherries have higher alcohol levels that don’t make them the best choice for the long haul. I’m 5.3ft so maybe it is more my problem (!) than Sherry’s but the alcohol content is something to be wary of.
Secondly, I don’t think there is a wide enough understanding of Sherry. Do people know it’s a fortified wine or that you can have sweet and dry styles? Should you drink it with food? Is it an aperitif or digestif? There needs to be more information around Sherry and this starts with sommeliers, wine merchants and me educating you!
Thirdly, for Sherry to widen its net and attract more drinkers I think it needs to become more independent. A huge part of Sherry’s charm is its connection to Spain but sometimes I think this holds it back. Sherry shouldn't only be eaten with Spanish food. It’s different now with more worldly chefs and sommeliers adding Sherry to their lists but still, you’re rarely seeing Fino in a pub! Sherry is viewed as a novelty rather than a drink. I don’t see why someone shouldn't order a glass of Fino like they would a glass of Champagne. As soon as Sherry starts being viewed as an everyday beverage, I reckon we’ll see it popping up in all restaurants. A glass of Amontillado with curry - delicious!
The fundamental thing to note about Sherry thought is just how cheap it is. You can buy a bottle of Tio Pepe for £13 from Sainsburys and it will keep in your fridge for weeks once opened. The complexity, low price and damn right deliciousness cannot be found in another style of wine. I think you’ll agree once you start your Sherry odyssey.