Mr Incredible’s famous line sums up how a lot of people and objects like to operate. We all have colleagues who are unable to delegate, freezing up when faced with team situations. We all own pieces of furniture that just don’t work with the general scheme, no matter how hard we try. Bringing it back to wine, there are grapes that prefer to work alone and grapes that enjoy being part of a gang. Cabernet Sauvignon, the world’s most planted red grape variety, strategically has feet in both camps. If given the choice, I get the sense the grape would want to be the star of the show yet some of Cabernet Sauvignon’s greatest work has been, and continues to be, in blends. How can we marry these two sides of an incredibly popular varietal? To blend or not to blend?
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From Lebanon to France to Australia, Cabernet Sauvignon is grown in nearly all wine-producing countries. The grape’s parents are Sauvignon Blanc (white) and Cabernet Franc (red) so it makes sense that the grape rose to prominence in Bordeaux. Its popularity among growers is down to how easy it is to cultivate. Amongst drinkers, it is widely adored because of its concentration and versatility. Different climates, soils and expositions will lead to a variety of flavours, from savoury to smoky to fruity but the power and structure of Cabernet Sauvignon is always present.
Cabernet Sauvignon is high octane in every way. The grape’s characteristics include intense blackcurrant colour, medium-high acidity, grippy tannins, full body and rich flavours. If you think about the components that make up a grape, Cabernet Sauvignon is at full capacity for everything. There’s no two ways about it, Cabernet Sauvignon is the Logan Roy of the wine world, the ultimate powerhouse, so why do we often find it blended with other grape varieties? Surely this grape has enough going on by itself? You might think so, but the fact is, Cabernet Sauvignon is often part of a blend, so let’s have a look at both now before making a judgement.
Single Varietal:
This is what we call a wine made entirely from one grape variety. There are certain grapes that don’t like sharing. Pinot Noir is one, Riesling is another and I would argue Cabernet Sauvignon is one too.
Deep down Cabernet Sauvignon is Beyoncé. Stay with me….I’m sure Beyoncé once enjoyed being part of Destiny’s Child but there’s a reason she went solo. As part of an ensemble, you’re subject to the whims and wishes of others - you can’t do exactly what you want. Your individual creativity and ability can become side-lined in a group, and some can’t handle this. We saw Beyoncé break out on her own, and I would argue that Cabernet Sauvignon, every vintage, tries to do the same! The structure of Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the reasons why it wants to be be a single varietal wine. Think power and attack when it comes to acidity, tannins and body. The colour can vary from crimson to purple but the tone is always inky and deep - the sort of colour you’d want a sofa in. Cabernet Sauvignon has the ability to be all about the fruit when young but with age, flavours of meat, smoke and earth emerge. In short, nobody puts Cabernet Sauvignon in a corner.
Cabernet Sauvignon is skilled at absorbing new flavours depending on where it’s grown. In Australia, the Coonawarra region produces Cabernets with minty flavours whereas Cabernet in cooler parts of Chile comes with tomato plant notes. Napa Valley in California has adopted Cabernet Sauvignon and the single varietal wines produced there are some of the most expensive in the world. The best examples are akin to drinking velvet! The downsides to a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon are minimal in my opinion, but its intensity could be one. It’s more food friendly when in single varietal form so it’s less of a ‘enjoy while watching TV’ wine. The grape’s green, sappy flavours when not ripened properly can be unpleasant. However, these negatives are massively outweighed by the sheer power and majesty found in this grape variety when allowed to shine on its own. This single varietal Cabernet Sauvignon was delicious. Ripe but not jammy with enough intensity to keep your attention but not too much to overpower you.
Blend:
This is when multiple grapes are blended together to make the final wine. The Bordeaux blend, of which Cabernet Sauvignon is a key component, is the most famous. Broad-shouldered and powerful, Cabernet Sauvignon brings a lot to the party. The grape usually plays the starring role because it has so much to give. In Bordeaux, and I’m talking wines from the Left Bank here (appellations such as St Julien, Pauillac, Margaux), I’d expect to see Cabernet Sauvignon making up at least 50% of the blend with the other grapes (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot) making up various percentages depending on yield and vintage. Merlot brings softness, body and plum flavours. Cabernet Franc lifts the blend with its aromatic brightness and red fruit flavours. Petit Verdot is used but used sparingly, as it adds a lot of colour and tannin. You can see that each grape has a part to play in this famous blend, which has travelled the seas. Due to the reputation of Bordeaux, this blend has been adopted by multiple countries around the world. Special mention must go to South Africa, Chile, Italy and the US who are producing sensational examples, putting their spin on an Old World recipe.
In Australia, Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with Shiraz. This combination is unusual and symbolises Australia’s freedom when it comes to winemaking. Unconstrained by the rules and regulations of the Old World, Australia has no qualms with blending Bordeaux (Cabernet Sauvignon) with the Rhone (Shiraz), something the French would consider sacrilege. You don’t see this blend as often as you see the Bordeaux blend but I must say, it works. Penfolds are one of Australia’s largest producers making wines to suit all budgets but their most collectable wine is Grange, which is the most celebrated blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet brings structure and power and Shiraz adds fruit and suppleness. You’d think these two titans of the red grape world would clash but oddly they work well together.
An iconic Cabernet Sauvignon blend.
Try this for a taste of classic Bordeaux and this for Australia’s take on the Cabernet blend. Tuscany’s ‘Super-Tuscan’ producers have adopted Cabernet Sauvignon and the grape is very happy about it! Bolgheri’s position near the Tuscan coast leads to optimum growing conditions for ripening Cabernet Sauvignon - try this.
What’s the verdict? Should Cabernet Sauvignon be left to ‘work alone’ or does it excel as part of a blend? I’m on the fence with this one. The downside of blending Cabernet Sauvignon is the potential to lose some of its potency. The grape has so much character and structure that blending other varieties in can dilute it. However, the great wines of Bordeaux can be the best wines you’ll ever drink and I think this is down to Cabernet Sauvignon’s role in the blend. Blend is the important word here and I would argue that in the moderate climate of Bordeaux, the other grapes add flesh to the bones of Cabernet Sauvignon, which helps it shine. In warmer areas, I don’t think Cabernet Sauvignon needs help. Allowed to ripen fully, it excels on its own, rarely needing additional support. When you’re next buying Cabernet Sauvignon, be it in a blend or as a single varietal wine, think about the place on the label. For cooler areas, I’d select a blend and for warmer climates, I’d go for a Cabernet Sauvignon tout seul.
I think I’ve been rather diplomatic here….let me know your thoughts as and when you dive into the world of Cabernet Sauvignon.
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